From the castle to the hermitages
TUSCANY

The photos were published in the Motocilcismo and Motoitalia magazines in 2006.

Do you remember the film "we just have to cry" with Benigni and Troisi? Well, the inn-castle of the Sorci, where the cinematographic story begins, will also be the starting point of this suggestive itinerary that, exploiting the fame of its cuisine, will allow us to get to know this corner of Tuscany full of hermitages and streets absolutely worthy of consideration.

Read the story published in the Motociclismo magazine.

Read the story published in the Motoitalia magazine.

Transformed into a farm, today the Castello di Sorci hosts one of the most typical restaurants in Italy, well known for the characters who regularly visit it (cinema actors, TV presenters, singers, journalists, writers ... some photographers !!!) . Who does not remember that its rooms provided the inspiration for the screenplay of the film "We just have to cry" by and with Roberto Benigni and Massimo Troisi, at the time guests of the castle of Sorci. On summer evenings, under the starry sky, some still seem to hear the rattling noise of Baldaccio's armor, whose ghost animates the life of his ancient castle. Most of you have probably seen the movie, but who was this Baldaccio? He was a valiant leader, to whom his town, Anghiari, dedicated the main square. A capable and courageous man, defined by Machiavelli: "most excellent man of war, because in those times there was no one in Italy who surpassed him in virtue of body and soul; and he had been in the infantry because he had always been their leader, so much reputation that every man valued with him in every enterprise and to every will of him they would agree ”. But what a place! How he has escaped me so far is a real mystery. Bah, let's make up for lost time. Too bad that it is not possible to sleep there, then that it would be a very valid base point both for this itinerary and for others that this splendid area could offer. However, there is no shortage of accommodation opportunities. It goes without saying that so much success also begins to show negative aspects: super crowded weekends (let's not forget that the restaurant manages to dispose of even 1000 seats) where without booking it is practically impossible to hope to eat and a quality of meals that perhaps begins to lose panache. Fixed menu, mentions a sign at the entrance. You just have to sit down and wait for the dishes to be served.
Prices? € 19 all inclusive, sweet wine and vin santo included.

I am alone, but I defend myself by finishing the bottle of sweet wine almost completely and the next morning the signs are evident in a certain slowing down of reflexes and mental processes. The road takes care to awaken my attention. In fact, immediately after Anghiari, the provincial road that climbs towards the Alpe di Catenaia and the birthplace of Michelangelo Buonarroti, reminds me that today will be a day of folds. Needless to say, the picturesque town houses the interesting Michelangelo museum in the fourteenth-century castle above the town, which houses casts and photographic productions of the artist's works. From here you can follow 2 roads. The first, shorter directly towards La Verna and its hermitage, the other towards Pieve S. Stefano to go up from the Spino pass. It's an order, choose the second one. The route, which is also that of a famous time trial climb which takes place in late spring, is a real joy for the guide. If you are by now in a competitive trance you will arrive at the gates of Bibbiena, and this can only mean that you have skipped the stop at the sanctuary of La Verna built by San Francresco in 1214. Here the saint 10 years later received the stigmata and in addition to being a destination of pilgrimages is located in a beautiful position on a limestone peak. Have you gone back? It was worth it. Bibbiena and Poppi are centers that have sprung up in the Arno valley: the first is an industrial center, the second is a nice medieval village dominated by a fortress visible from miles away. And it is precisely from Poppi that probably the most spectacular road to Camaldoli starts. Some guides define the forest within which the monastic complex is enclosed, extraordinary, and they do not exaggerate at all !! Today protected in the national park these lands were given to St. Romualdo by Count Maldolo of Arezzo (hence the name Ca'Maldoli). There are two structures: the hermitage and the monastery. The first higher up will be the first to be reached by the itinerary. The light that filters through the wood seems to evoke the patrols of a Romualdo, no longer young, who is fascinated by this forest to positively evaluate the comfort of the paths and streams, the proximity of the cultivated fields and the possibility of total isolation. During his life, the saint had made dozens of similar choices, in Italy and abroad, to place and accommodate the disciples that his passage aroused everywhere, but this is certainly one of the happiest.
The story tells that once the place was chosen, he built 5 cells where he established 5 brothers and built a house further down, he placed a monk with 3 converts to receive guests, so that the hermitage would always remain hidden and away from the noise of the world. Certainly an original solution, unique in Western monasticism. Very interesting are also the products displayed in the pharmacies of the complex, whose activities began in 1048 supported by a hospital. A couple of fires with relative reconstructions have led to the present structure which dates back to 1513. To go down towards the SS71 of the fantastic Mandrioli pass, there are 2 possibilities, one directly from the monastery, the other going up the very steep road that leads back to the We will then turn right onto a panoramic road that is partly unpaved but easy.
Great driving satisfaction!
Once you have gone down to the valley it is possible to avoid the freeway that looms over the landscape with disturbing and continuous overpasses, going right before Bagno di Romagna for the old ss3. The road is dirty, slippery, but splendidly desolate to then improve and allow a nice entrance into Sansepolcro.From here we are close to Anghiari, from where we will arrive passing through the valley where the famous battle of 1440 took place, which inspired Leonardo da Vinci and which saw the Florentines prevail over the Visconti militias.
We are at the end. The only thing missing from the appeal is Baldaccio's ghost, who legend has it that he wanders certain nights through the halls of the castle!